We had crossed a few streams on the journey so far, but these streams built in intensity as we continued. We felt we were getting closer, but the hardest parts of the hike were still to come. Soon we could hear the gushing of water, and taking a few steps to peer over the side of the trail revealed amazing views of the West Fork Canyon and the San Juan river below. Many plants and shrubs were already waist-height and showed no signs of slowing down. Although this area was so recently burnt, it is amazing to see how fast the forest can regenerate itself. My friend informed us that this area was affected by the West Fork Fire just last summer in 2013. Before we knew it we were walking through a barren-looking land with blackened trees.
The scenery soon changed, and we left all signs of civilization behind as we got deeper into the forest. The turnoff for Rainbow Trail reads 4 miles to go, but it feels longer. “Don’t worry, we thought we were lost about here too!” He joked with a grin. “Yeah, just take the turnoff coming up,” the taller man reassured us. “This is still the trail for Rainbow Hot Springs, right?!” my friend anxiously piped. Our minds were put at ease as we saw a couple of other hikers coming back on the trail. This area is littered with “private property” signs, and it’s important to be mindful of these so the locals don’t decide to close access. The first mile of trail winds through summer cabins of Borns Lake. The trail is approximately 10 miles long, so plan 5 or 6 hours for a round trip. The hike to the hot springs gains over 1000 feet in elevation and is not for the weak-hearted. Look for the trail labeled West Fork Trail #561.
In about seven miles you will reach the West Fork trailhead parking. To get there, follow US 160 northeast from Pagosa Springs for 16 miles and take the exit for West Fork Campground (CR 648). The hike to Rainbow Hot Springs is challenging, but you will be rewarded with a first-class place to unwind. Hikers are attracted by the isolated hot springs in the heart of the forest. So unknown, in fact, that descriptions of the hike all vary. Rainbow Hot Springs is a relatively unknown area located north of Pagosa Springs in the Colorado Mountains of the central U.S.
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